IT was 5pm as Yusuf, a forest ranger of the Komodo National Park, led us 1 kilometer deeper in the forests to Sulphurea Hill. “We’re late, we should have started earlier at 3:30pm,” he said.

We walked on as long it was still daylight, climbing up the hill, not to find komodo, but the little yellow-crested cockatoo, an endangered bird species.

It was a slow journey starting from Labuhan Bajo in Flores. It took us two hours by speedboat to