AROUND 200 kilometers north of Makassar lies a beautiful mountain range with awesome valleys. Two particular mountains stand out from the others: Mt Kabobong and Mt Bambapuang. The former is also known as Mt Nona (Mistress), because its shape resembles female genitalia.

Mt Bambapuang is believed to be the birthplace of South Sulawesi’s early civilization and governance. Bugis people call the place “tana rigalla tana riabbusungi” (“the h