THE red light of dusk began to reflect from the sea, emitting its hue on paddy fields, rocky hills and fishponds. It also penetrated the APV car that had taken me from Makassar since 14:00 Central Indonesia Time, in August last year. I was bound for Polewali, the capital of Polewali Mandar (Polman) regency, West Sulawesi, some 300 kilometers from Makassar.

Previously, this regency was called Polewali Mamasa (Polmas). After a regional “breakup