YOHANES Wonda with his wife and three children had to jostle through the crowds when boarding the KM Rinjani. The hundreds of thousands of rupiah he had spent to buy the tickets for sleeping berths on board went down the drain. Every sleeping berth on board—including the ones Yohanes had booked—was occupied by the vendors with their merchandizes. “I should’ve got the bunks but they were already used by somebody else. I might as well give