THE Cape of Nustul in Southwest Maluku province was where the vessel KM Kelimutu ran aground on August 4. This disaster was yet another blemish in the reputation of state-owned PT Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia or Pelni (Indonesian National Shipping), both in its performance and quality of service. Some Pelni vessels—particularly their economy class—are synonymous with appalling conditions: minimum facilities, bad sanitation and passengers crow