THIS is the irony of the maritime state called Indonesia. Sea transport, especially for those in the lower economic strata, is truly appalling, far below the normal standards of comfort and safety.

The Pelni vessel Kelimutu, plying the Surabaya-Merauke route, provides an example. Forced to carry beyond capacity, passengers are packed tightly until the top deck, and worse, even to the unusable lifeboats. There is a lack of water. Overflowed toil