FOR almost a year Zakaria has been teaching religion in a state elementary school in Riung subdistrict, Ngada regency, East Nusa Tenggara (NTT). When asked what his salary was, his face tensed visibly. “Just Rp250,000 a month,” the 23-year-old bachelor replied in a barely audible voice.

Ovin Mello, Zakaria’s friend from the same village, finds herself in a similar plight. The 27-year-old has to help her family by weaving traditional Flores