South Sulawesi’s Vanishing High Priests

The word Bissu refers to an ancient Bugis priest from the calabai community of eunuch-like people who once played an important role in South Sulawesi. The La Galigo scripture refers to the Bissu as having descended from the gods, and as such, were the anointed high priests of holy rituals. In Bugis royal hierarchy, a Bissu served as the king’s spiritual advisor. Today, however, their influence is fast waning, reduced to being called heretics in some communities. A special Tempo English Edition report by Tempo correspondents Irmawati and Andi Pajung and photographer Ayu Ambong.

December 22, 2010

BONTOMATENE village apparently showed no vibrancy that evening. There was no significant activity in the village located in Segeri district, Pangkep regency, South Sulawesi. Only several elder women were seen sweeping dry leaves in the yard while watching over their children at play. In fact, the next day a Mappalili ritual would be conducted by Saidi Puang Matao—the Bissu chief in Segeri district.

It seems the ritual marking the paddy planti

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