Stories from the Swamps

Asmat, a district in West Papua province, is located over muddy marshlands, where homes are built on stilts, connected to one another by a grid of boardwalks. It is a land where art seems to flow in the blood of most Asmats, as most villagers seem to revel in making it one of the world-recognized centers for beautiful wood carvings. But Asmat is also a land of shortages, given its remote and isolated location. Many of the children are illiterate and food is expensive. Kurniawan and Eka Nickmatulhuda write from Asmat on the trials and tribulations of its people for Tempo English Edition.

February 9, 2011

IT was still early but the large bridge in the hub of the town of Agats was already crowded with students in school uniforms—one day in November. Two meters wide, the concrete bridge is the main road of the town and local residents often dub it a toll road. From here, small wooden bridges spread out, connecting all houses, offices, and centers of activity like markets and the port in Agats.

The town downstream of Atsewtsy River stands above mu

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