THAT morning, about three weeks ago, the sky was very bright. The suspension bridge at the entry gate of the Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, Tulabolo village, East Suwawa subdistrict, Bone Bolango regency, was teeming with around a hundred people. They were gold hunters. As usual, the miners were welcomed by smiling ojek or motorcycle-taxi drivers based there. They mostly use the ojek services to reach the fringes of the national park. The f