Never Say Die

In Tanah Toraja, South Sulawesi, death is celebrated at a special event called Rambu Solo. This is when families gather up their closest and dearest departed for a special burial rite. It’s a special yearly event that attracts both domestic and international visitors who come, despite the poor local infrastructure, to witness the elaborate procession and rituals. Billions of rupiah are poured into the area at this time, benefitting traders, tour guides and tourist establishments. Not surprisingly, 70 percent of Toraja’s revenue is derived from the tourism sector. But many fear the inherent danger of commercializing culture. Tempo English Edition reports from Toraja in Sulawesi.

July 20, 2011

MARTINA had spread out her wares before 8am. Her hands, gnarled at the age of 57, smartly organized the varieties of snacks, together with all the kinds of drinks, from bottled water to alcoholic beverages in cans. She was seated in one of the alangs, the traditional buildings usually used to store food, located in Saluallo—a village in North Toraja, South Sulawesi.

Several children came to and fro, stopping to buy cookies. Martina claimed: â€

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