The bright light from a bonfire blazed in between scores of large tents. Each tent itself was lit from inside, banishing the dark of the night. This was no ordinary camping trip. The tents had been set up near the Angin Laut racing track in Penyaring, a village on Sumbawa Island. They were occupied by owners of horses and their jockeys.

One hectic tent held 60 children, aged five to 12. Each of them held a blank sheet of paper and a pencil. Some