THE Riau Cultural Performing Arts Building in Pekanbaru, Riau, is packed. Only a few rows in the back still have empty seats. As the lights dim and the stage is lit, some 400 patrons break into a grin: Another performance of Romieh and Julieh is about to start.

The first scene, adapted from Shakespeare's timeless drama, Romeo and Juliet, opens with Romieh's father searching in vain for his son. He is irritated because his son has misplaced the TV re