AROUND 20 children gathered inside a small building in a narrow alleyway adjacent to Purus Beach in Padang, West Sumatra. In the 100-square-meter room that houses the Tanah Ombak community, some of the kids could be seen reading, while others were writing or play-acting. The thin walls are adorned with bookshelves and paintings.

Eventually the children decided to play gontri, a traditional game. They sat in a circle and a boy picked up several