HUNDREDS of coffee trees grow on a plot of land at the periphery of the forest in Kahayya village, South Sulawesi. The trees belong to Ansar, a local coffee farmer who has been growing coffee his whole life. The 32-year-old owns a total of one hectare of land, but some of the trees are located inside the forest under the shade of larger trees.

Ansar began helping his parents at the farm when he was a child. What he knew about growing coffee was