TEEMING with pulsing traffic, never-ending construction sites, and great rivers of steel, glass, and granite winding through endless expanses of one-story red-roofed kampungs, Jakarta might seem at first sight an improbable destination for families.

Although you could never mistake it for a Luang Prabang or a Paris, with few parks to alleviate the landscape, once you start to add up Jakarta’s unique urban attractions you realize that the city