WHEN the tsunami struck, Ulheu Lhee became one of the numerous ground zeroes across Acehs western coast. The area, about 20 meters from the coastal line, was totally destroyed, leaving only one building intact, a mosque, which was visited by Manchester United football player Cristiano Ronaldo. Today, nearing the second anniversary of the disaster, many permanent and semi-permanent buildings have sprung up on the spot.

There are refugees barracks,