As of last weekend, life has returned to normal in Sampang, Madura. Shops have reopened and markets are crowded again. But security forces are still patrolling the streets. Members of the Police Mobile Brigade stood on guard in front of the razed provincial legislature. The smell of burning materials is still thick in the air.

An eerie and frightening gloom continues to linger on in the city. Last week it was almost torn apart by skirmishes