The face of religious teacher Umar Budihargo, the umrah tour guide for the Taruna Alquran study group from Yogyakarta, mirrored his disappointment. Twelve of the 62 registered to make the umrah with him on October 27 weren’t allowed to depart for this particular Holy Land. They were firmly ringed in by the muhrim regulation—the requirement for women to travel only with a close relation, by family or marriage—which has begun to