MUNSA waved his hand while directing the mid-sized wooden fishing boat, called a pompong, to dock in front of his house in hamlet I, Air Glubi (Island) village, Bintan Regency, Riau Islands. This old man had just returned from seeking bait for fishing at night. He invited Tempo into his permanent concrete house, standing right by the sea. Munsa opened his sweater and changed his long pants to a checkered sarong, sitting cross-legged in