SHANGHAI is a city on the move. Buildings soar to the sky, as though competing for space, or a name, or the future. Architecture seems to have been ordered as an afterthought; the rows of buildings look hard, loud, and often vulgar. From the boulevards along the Huangpu River in the Waitan district (which the English call “The Bund”), people are startled, or laugh in amusement, to see the “Pearl of the East” TV tower on the other side, st