STANDING over half of the Pasir Tengah Hills above the village of Sarongge, the forest watches. Eucalyptus trees have taken over. Their straight trunks soar 15 meters high, in neat rows, each with bark like peeling naked skin.

Beneath them: an expanse of carrot plants. The earth is carefully tilled along the rows. From the top of the hill, one can hear every now and then the chugging of old motorbikes coming to collect the produce, paying no hee