SLAMET Gundono is theater itself. Even with his 300-kilogram-plus body, he can still move with the rhythm of a dancer. His voice carries, it can be strong or melancholy, sometimes dramatic and sometimes humorous, as befits a shadow puppet master or dalang. But he is more than that. On stage, he is also a total actor. His diction when he articulates his dialog is stirring, and his pausing is perfect. He can sing, he can improvise song at any momen