At the mountain summit I met Akhmad. Then Matheus. Lastly, Vincentius. It was still cold; the sun had only just risen. The east was just orange light broken with the dark that was still on the steep walls of the three Kelimutu lakes.

Akhmad, tall, his expression tough and sharp, like an Afro-Latin with rather dark skin, was wearing a faded khaki jacket, and on his feet, rubber thongs. He was selling weaving from his village. Matheus, wearing an ov