IN his village in Central Java, Ruslan has no time for shouting. While Jakarta rings with the noise of three words pitted against each other—‘Workers’, ‘Business’ and ‘Bureaucracy’—he is busy planting yams. With his cracked hoe he digs the earth in his backyard. And into the 50-centimeter deep holes, he puts straw for fertilizer.

He is pleased. Already, 195 of the plants have grown. He is both