In a corner of the empty Baucau coast, there stands a Portuguese-era building, filthy and superfluous. A few years back, this thick-walled Mediterranean-style construction was turned into a rice-mill. Not far away, rather high up, between coconut palms and tamarind trees, stands a tin building painted red, which used to be a government food-warehouse. All around are shacks. "There used to be a fishermen's cooperative here", a middle-aged woman said,...