JUNGLE and silence, statues and ruins, mist and rain; all making the remains of the ancient city of Angkor Thom seem reunited with Time—but a Time we don't really know. Standing among the blackened stone pillars and the Bayon Temple walls browned with laterite, one directly faces four Buddha head statues carved on the 45-meter-high summit; one is unnerved in the awareness of an 800-year history. But for just a moment. Right now.

I am a to