Now that the guests have gone and the dust has settled following weeks of activities commemorating the first anniversary of the earthquake-tsunami disaster, a semblance of normalcy has returned to Aceh. More importantly, the security situation seems to be improving by the day. The Free Aceh Movement (GAM) has decommissioned its weapons, as it was required to do under the Helsinki peace agreement, and only 14,000 organic troops and 9,000 policem