SIX boats, neatly moored at the Ujong Pancu quay, slowly bob up and down with the gentle waves. Green hills stand in front and behind, bordering the sea and the remote village.

Dozens of men sit chatting at a food stall not far from the boats. Some are relaxing while others are busy fixing and cleaning the boat engines. On a Friday in mid-May 2006, they do not go fishing in observance of the unwritten sea tradition. On Fridays people may take to t