THE black smoke ends at the edge of the road which connects to a footpath that cuts through thick underbrush. The rain which has been falling since dusk now turns into drizzle as the frogs sing in the night. The wooden house sits in the middle of an oil palm plantation. Inside lives Ridwan Abu Bakar, former Commander of the Free Aceh Movement (GAM) in East Aceh.

No furniture graces the living room except for a plastic mat on the floor. In the fron