THAT day the fishermen did not go out to sea. They just sat, chatting in a storehouse on Sunday morning in early June in the town of Calang. They were engaged in a variety of activities. Some were cleaning engines, while others repaired torn nets. Still others were just enjoying their cigarettes.

The storehouse looked messy. Several jerry cans of diesel oil were scattered in front, while fish boxes were used as seats. Traces of the tsunami were st