THE locals call it Hells Highway. Indeed, to motorcyclists who can still traverse the 240-kilometer road linking Banda Aceh to Meulaboh, the ride is often a hellish experience. On some parts where the road runs alongside the sea, the waves appear to be threatening to take over the road. But riders, carefully watching the water, try not to get their attention away from the road for too long. For it is full of deep holes: dusty in the dry season an