THE wooden house was in a state of near-collapse when she returned to the neighborhood of Jantho Baru, Greater Aceh, at the end of last year. The corrugated aluminum roof was rusty, full of holes. The wooden planks had rotted. Weeds were waist-high. Suratmi, 39, the owner of the house, didnt care. She had left her hometown in Pangkur, Ngawi, East Java, because, Here I can save money again, as she said to Tempo.

Actually, Suratmi left Ngawi 20 year