YULIYANTI, 33, is waiting expectantly for next week to arrive. On Monday, December 11, she along with some 2.6 million Acehnese will deliver the land of their birth into a new political era by voting in the provinces first direct election of regional heads (Pilkada). Through their hands, a governor and 19 regents and mayors will be elected in the largest Pilkada in Indonesian history.

The hopes of this resident of Dayah Baroe village in the Matang