THE sky went dark over Surabaya one afternoon. The rain poured down along with strong winds. From behind the window curtain of her office, Tri Rismaharini took a peek. Her face looked tense. “I always panic when there are strong winds, lest the trees on the road might fall,” said the head of the City Park and Sanitation Office of Surabaya.

Then Tri Risma—as she is better known—prepared herself to inspect the cleanliness of Surabaya that