THE tower looms in the center of the city. It climbs up 80 meters in height, almost as high as the hilltops around it. But don’t be mistaken. The building that serves as the tower of a mosque is not new and was even originally not a mosque tower. It used to be the chimney of a steam-powered electricity generator, built in 1894. The designers, Dutch architects, built it to prevent the town from being polluted by the air. With a chimney of such a