SUSANNA Nur still keeps deeply in her heart the memory of her grandfather. Each weekend Teungku Muhammad Daud Beureueh, or Abu Syi as the family fondly call him, would take her for a walk along the beaches of Kutaraja, the city now known as Banda Aceh. Together the two, granddaughter and grandfather, would stop at a fishermans house, buy fish from him, and grill them in his kitchen. All done and served on the table, Daud the military governor of