FROM the sky, it looked like there was a festival going on. In addition to the multi-colored building, there were lots of banners and Balinese bamboo decorations fluttering in the wind. Kuta Galeria, an upmarket shopping center that was opened several weeks ago, both symbolizes and celebrates Bali's return to normal times: times when tourists arrivals were as unceasing as the eternal waves from the sea.

After one year of seeming paralysis s