EVER since the Bali bombing, business has not been nearly as good as it was, especially as far as small-scale craftsmen and handicraft makers are concerned. Life for Kadek Moyo—who works every day as a wood carver at the Made Kuang art shop in the village of Sebatu—has been very gloomy recently. "The situation is extremely difficult now," he said wearily, "Although the tourists have started to come back, none of them are buying."

Ke