AFTER the Bali tragedy, what can we expect when we step on the ground that instantly sends the tinkling sounds of gamelan to our ears, the sand on our feet, and the air filled with the scent of frangipani mixed with tourists' body odor?

Those who are pessimistic pronounce the bombs of last year as the end of the sparkling Island of the Gods: demolished economy, inflated unemployment, and kecak dancers roaming in front of hotels just to make