THE night was about to turn into dawn. The entire length of the road at Legian was jammed by rows of vehicles, while foreign tourists crowded the sidewalks. Some tourists roamed around the many pubs that blared live music. The rest of them walked the streets carrying bottles of liquor. To all appearances, Legian has regained its old breath: wriggling and buzzing all night, as if it has forgotten the bomb terror one year ago. And yet that t