LAST August, the yard of the Begawan Giri Payangan Hotel in Bali came alive with the jovial sound of dozens of men jumping out of trucks which had carried them from Teges village. The bare-chested dancers, clad only in loincloths, rushed into the changing room. They were the famous kecak (monkey) dancers, getting ready to give a performance.

Before the men took to the stage to perform, another troupequite unhappy by comparisonsuddenly turned up. T