THE worlds most peculiarly shaped island, Sulawesi resembles anything from an open-jawed crocodile to a spastic letter K. Four long, narrow peninsulas separated by three great gulfs are joined in the islands mountainous heart. Volcanoes stretch from north to south and range 1,800-3,000 meters in height, offering unspoiled, pollution-free, breath-catching tropical scenery. Surrounded by deep seas, monsoons heave big surf onto beaches along thousan