BALIS western Jembrana Regency is the least populated and most heavily Javanized regency of Bali. Four of five inhabitants earn their income from farming or fishing. Jembrana is also the least visited part of Bali. Not even rudimentary English is widely spoken here. Its isolation only came to an end with the Gilimanuk-Ketapang ferry service. Today, most tourists speed through the region along the 134-km-long road from Denpasar to Gilimanuk. Most