IF the worlds oil wells were to dry up tomorrow, goods and people would still continue to move around the watery nation of Indonesia, a country which sits astride two oceans and boasts the largestand lastfleet of wooden oceangoing sailing vessels in the worldan estimated 40,000 strong. Within the archipelagos land and sea area of 5 million square kilometers, you can still experience leisurely travel in the 19th century stateroom style of Joseph C