THOSE travelers who want to experience a more adventurous side of the archipelago than just Java and Bali should consider Makassar, one of Indonesias most colorful, fascinating and totally unpretentious cities. Makassar has been the largest and busiest mercantile and communications center in all of eastern Indonesia for over 500 years.

Formerly known as Ujung Pandang, this bustling commercial, shipping, and government center constitutes a major ai