THE three tiny picture-perfect islands of Gili Air, Gili Meno, and Gili Trawangan, known collectively as the Gilis, lie just off Lombok’s northwest coast, yet feel a million miles away from the development of Bali.

No longer unspoiled, the islands are now definitely on the tourist circuit, gradually but inexorably becoming developed. Indeed, at the height of the summer tourist rush it may even be difficult to find rooms.

Though a number of