THE small agricultural community of Trowulan was once the capital of the mighty Majapahit Kingdom which, under the ruthless Gajah Mada, controlled most of the archipelago during the 13th and 14th centuries. A major center of commerce, Majapahit’s trading network extended to mainland Southeast Asia, China and India.

This ancient and cosmopolitan Hindu-Buddhist capital was once completely surrounded by a high brick wall enclosing palaces, playi