BUMBU Desa’ translates as ‘village spices’, ‘tetap kampungan’ as ‘truly village’. I thought to go to the Bumbu Desa restaurant on Jalan Cikini Raya in the belief that the food would be Sundanese, a variety of which I am rather fond and, sure enough, just inside the door of this cool, attractive place there is a sign saying ‘The best Sundanese food’.

I took a seat and then went to the buffet counter where a smorgasbord of local