THE sprawling regency of Buleleng of north Bali has mountain hikes, rustic villages, waterfalls, untouched marine and forest reserves, hot springs, beach resorts, a secluded coastline bordering a placid sea, silversmiths and distinctive temples. The south end stretches across the foothills of Bali’s central volcanoes while the north’s coastal plain faces the Java Sea.

Shallow reefs offshore offer some of the island’s most accessible s